Like my fellow fashion enthusiasts, last month I rushed to South Kensington to witness the Marie Antoinette Style exhibition at the V&A before it wrapped up. The blockbuster display yielded five-star reviews from critics across the board, juxtaposing intricate 18th century gowns with ornately gilded homeware, priceless jewellery, Rococo artworks and more.
One corner of the exhibition was entirely dedicated to Toile de Jouy - a print beloved by the ill-fated French royal. Characterised by pastoral vignettes, bucolic couples, and idyllic landscapes rendered in a single pigment on pale ground, the design captured the Queen consort’s appetite for romantic escapism and, in Gen Z terms, unapologetic whimsy.
Toile de Jouy first emerged in late eighteenth-century France, printed in the town of Jouy-en-Josas under manufacturer Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf. Originally inspired by imported Indian cottons, the fabric quickly became a symbol of refined French taste, adorning interiors of aristocratic homes and imperial residences alike.
The print entered the mainstream fashion lexicon when Christian Dior founded his first store on 30 Avenue Montaigne in December 1946. The designer enlisted the help of friends Victor Grandpierre and Christian Bérard to design the space, which they decorated with Toile de Jouy. By 1959, the print appeared in Dior’s designs, produced for the brand’s London branch alongside pumps by Roger Vivier.
© @tanialeslau
© @tanialeslauGianfranco Ferré was the first creative director to reimagine the fabric, employing the aesthetic for his spring/summer 1991 haute couture collection. Galliano then took the baton, sheathing models including Shalom Harlow in a pink rendition of the print for spring/summer 1998. He continued to toy with the fanciful design throughout his tenure at the house.
As did Maria Grazia Chiuri, who embraced Toile de Jouy for collections including spring/summer 2019, executing the print alongside flowing tulle skirts and sharply tailored blazers. The cotton-based design continues to saturate Dior’s Dioriviera and resort collections year after year.
© Getty ImagesOther designers took note, peppering summer-ready collections with the kitsch print that remains steeped in antique nostalgia. Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney, Karl Lagerfeld (for Chloé) and Jean Paul Gaultier all dabbed in Toilemania - menswear offerings very much included.
Considering that fashion loves a comeback, it was only time before Toile de Jouy took hold once again. Infuse your SS26 wardrobe with some playful print and shop the best Toile de Jouy pieces below.
Toile de Jouy Shopping Edit:
Mini Dior Book Tote with Strap
Dior
It would almost be rude not to include a Dior treasure here. Featuring the brand's iconic Toile de Juoy print in a classic white-navy colourway, this luxurious mini tote is an elegant ode to 18th-century French aesthetics.
The Babydoll
Cou Cou Intimates
The sweetest slip number that's primed for summertime frolicking, Cou Cou Intimates' babydoll dress is topping our warm weather wish lists.
Lily Corset Top
Naya Rea
A go-to source for coquettish pieces, Naya Rea is brimming with covetable printed gems. Made from pure cotton, this sweetheart corset boasts a pink-cream colourway and lightly padded wired cups for a stylish, supportive fit.
Classic Toile de Jouy Pink Unisex Boxer Shorts
Drayton
Drayton's British-made boxer shorts are bang on trend for spring/summer 2026. Crafted from 100 per cent cotton and available in an array of timeless colourways, these lightweight shorts are a versatile wardrobe staple.
Ray Pants
Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood famously loved to disrupt and deconstruct classic prints - including Toile de Juoy. The designer's ornate Ray pants are a serious summer statement, made in Italy from 100 per cent cotton for a breathable finish.
Darling Days Bloomers
Free People
Whimsical and romantic in equal measure, Free People's lace-frosted bloomers are perfect for those wanting to lean into retro nostalgia this season.
Silk Toile Pyjama Set
Harrods
Doze off while sheathed in a French dreamscape. Hailing from Harrods, these raspberry pink silk pyjamas promise the chicest night's sleep.
The Amadeus Corset Waistcoat
Selkie
The ideal blend of structural yet sensual, Selkie's Amadeus Waistcoast is a contemporary hybrid piece that pays homage to Victoriana corseting and classic design.
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